S&S Restaurant, a family-run Cambridge Institution since 1919, is arguably the city's most popular spot for weekend brunch. The lobby is routinely packed with weekend crowds clamoring for creatively stuffed omelets, hot pastrami sandwiches or crispy, sage and thyme-filled country sausage links.

But the restaurant is large, the service is fast and the lines move quickly.

Even if it doesn't, S&S is worth the wait. The length of the menu is highlighted by homemade potato pancakes and a savory, bacon and cheese-filled quiche Lorraine as good as any you'll find in a Parisian cafe. The warm sour cream coffee cake makes for a great little brunch appetizer. The deli sandwiches are piled high. And virtually every breakfast dish comes with a soft plump bagel slathered in cream cheese. You will eat well, as the name surreptitiously suggests. S&S is from the Yiddish "es and es" - eat and eat - a favorite expression of founder, Ma Edelstein, whose great-grand children now run the restaurant.

S&S (1334 Cambridge St., Inman Square, Cambridge) is open for brunch Saturdays and Sundays 8 a.m. to 4 p.m.




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